Trip to London.
Long delays between blog posts is fast becoming, became actually, my Modus Operandi. It will probably become worse once the wife pops like a squeezed grape giving birth to our child. Anyway, on to recent happenings.
Week before Christmas Marisa and I trained down to London for a few days. Arriving Sunday afternoon, and departing Tuesday late morning. Short, Fast and Sweet, that’s the only way to enjoy London. It does not take long (for me) to become tiresome of the crowds, grim, hustle and bustle of the London City scene. For having been born and raised in Brooklyn New York, I have come to loathe cities and love living in the country. Nonetheless – London here we are.
For being in London only two nights and one full day, we did manage to cram a lot of sights, sounds and shows into our short stay. Sunday afternoon, after checking into the APEX hotel, we made a bee-line to the Tate Museum of Modern Art. If you’re ever in London be sure to skip this time waster of a red brick building. It was just too Salvatore Dolly-ish for me. Exiting the Museum we noticed a street Market selling Christmas wares and other goods to include crepes, roasted pork, and Indian food. We opted for a crepe with lemon and sugar – Tasty.
From the market, the dome of St. Paul’s Cathedral was clearly visible across the river. Over the wobbly millennium bridge we went for a closer look – stopping for peanuts freshly coated with caramelized sugar. Yuck!
Admiring the Cathedral from the outside with a massive Christmas tree shining bright in front of the huge structure, we find that admission is 9 pound 60. That’s 15 bucks for you yanks. What an outrage I say! 15 dollars to look at an old church of a building, and that includes NO popcorn.
As I’m belly aching about the price of admission, we noticed a poster advertising the reading of “On Angel Wings” (A Christmas type of story) by Michael Morpurgo – with caroling – in St. Paul’s starting in a ½ hours time; Ticket holders only. Where to buy a ticket, we wondered, with me wondering more about the cost of a ticket; 9 pound 60 perhaps?
We rounded the front of St. Paul’s to see huge queues (lines for you yanks) of people entering the Cathedral. If it were up to me, I would have just walked off. But now that I have a wife by my side, being cajoled to make inquiries is becoming habit. Walking up the many stairs to the entrance, looking for someone to ask about tickets, we notice a Japanese tourist talking to an official looking chap. The chap said the “Cathedral was closed to sight-seers”, and “…only open for the reading and carol service”. I don’t think the Japanese tourist understood as he walked off in puzzlement still wondering why the whole city was being admitted, save for him and his camera toting buddies. Then I walked up to the official looking chap, was about to get the same story – interrupting him – I asked were may one acquire tickets? “Here you go” he said, pulling two tickets from a folder held underarm. How much? “Free” he said. Enjoy the show!
Poor Japanese tourist – he just did not get it, or a ticket.
St. Paul’s interior was grid lined with folding chairs except for in the center, where the readers and carolers stood on a small portable stage. The show started with the carolers singing “While Shepards Watched – Chime On” followed by reading the chapter “Sparks” from On Angel Wings. And so the evening went; singing followed by another chapter reading. Even for a curmudgeon like my self it was all very moving. Wonderful singing with great acoustics, under the dome and angelic artwork of St. Paul’s, made for a memorable evening. What makes if even more of a treat – besides being with my wife – was that we just happened upon it by chance.
Ohhh, remember those “free tickets”? Those tickets doubled as a donation envelope. The singing and caroling were part of a fundraiser for some charity. Remember that 9 pound 60 entrance fee I belly ached about? Well, they got me for a lot more than that. After making a well worth it donation, and purchasing two books by Michael Morpurgo, plus a CD that was a pervious recording of that night’s reading and singing, the normal entrance fee would have been a bargain. Not complaining, just saying.
After the show we had a delicious Burger at Gourmet Burger Kitchen (GBK). Yes, GBK is a chain – and I ate there. Me! Eating at a burger chain joint – the horror. But, these are really good burgers. GBK is not like the golden arches type burger joints. First a million and 1 variants are available for your burgering pleasure. From Kiwiburgers, Avocado Bacon Burgers, to Habanero Burgers, with the list continuing on and on – this chain is pretty darn good. It also uses the British Pub ordering and serving scheme. That is to say you pony up to the bar, order your food & drink, give them a table number, the table where you’ll be sitting hopefully, and then your order is magically delivered to your table by an Eastern European in search of a better life. On the downside – the fries were not too good.
After the burgers, it was off to the hotel for some rest before Monday’s activities.
Monday. We awoke early with the intent to make it to TKTS as soon before their 10 AM opening time as possible. TKTS’s deal is half priced tickets for London plays showing on that day.
As we left the hotel at around 8ish, and I could not endure a lousy hotel breakfast for 17 pounds ($25.00) each – we had plenty of time for a walk to find a more reasonably priced breakfast. And find we did. We found a small mom & pop greasy spoon type of place. They offered a 4 pound 50 breakfast with two eggs, a sausage, Canadian bacon, beans, toast, and a coffee. What a bargain! But don’t tell my family – they would have taken one look at this place and kept on walking. Greasy Spoon was putting it mildly; the whole place was a grease spot. After putting our order in at the counter we climbed 15 steps to reach the upstairs seating area with a very low ceiling. Even me with my height challenged stature I had to slouch a bit not to scrape my cranium on the ceiling and light fixtures. If you ever saw the half floor offices in the film “Being John Malkovich” you could imagine the lack of height in this greasy spoon establishment. Breakfast was good enough, though the wife’s eggs were too soft for an expecting mama to be. She sent them back and they happily refried her harder eggs with no lugie on the side – as far as we can tell.
Leaving the greasy spoon we endeavored to find the nearest tube station, finding first the “Sir John Cass’s Foundation Primary School – Founded 1710”. This being significant due to my wife’s Mom’s maiden name is Cass. Finding a tube station we trained it to Leister Square to see what half priced tickets were available. Out of all the West End shows available we choose “39 Steps”, seats 15 & 16 in row D, starting at 8pm that evening. With tickets in hand, the British Museum was our next stop.
If you’re ever in London be sure NOT to skip this attraction. It’s free – for the most part – except for visiting exhibitions. We spent several hours there, time that went quickly. Our tour back in time took us to Egyptian Sculpture, Ancient Egyptian life and death, Greece through the ages, Greek and Roman sculpture, and Assyrian history, then moving east to China, India, South Asia and all karma sutra and the Buda had to offer.
The big moment for me was in the Assyrian history section. There was a stone tablet listing near-by kingdoms and those kingdom’s rulers. There it was; Israel was listed with one of its kings. If you have ever read the Old Testament you know that the Assyrians are in there. In the books of 2 Kings, 2 Chronicles, Isaiah, Ezekiel & Micah all mention them.
I think many of us, especially me until recently, think of Biblical stories happening in some type of supernatural holier than thou reality vacuum; Like it was just the Jews, Moses, a few prophets, God, then Jesus and a few Romans from the beginning to the end of Biblical times; with no meaningful interaction from the outside world. Except for Charleston Hesston and the Egyptians of course.
Nothing can be further from the truth. As God worked His will through the Jewish people of Israel, they always were dealing with mostly hostile neighbors. These interactions are not only recorded in the Bible, but also they are in those neighbor’s historical documents. Like the mentioned Assyrian stone tablet.
Seeing, for me, a non-biblical reference of a people that are recorded in the Bible; backs up the truth that the Bible is a historically correct collection of books. Books that are God breathed and inspired given to his creation so that we may know Him and His gift of His Son Jesus Christ given to all humanity.
And that’s my story and I’m Sticking to it.
Long story short –read the Bible, have faith in Jesus, and go to the British Museum.
Next Stop – Harrods department store; for lunch – not shopping.
Harrods is that famous London department store owned by that Egyptian guy who the Queen turned down British citizenship to. His son was killed with Princess Diana that faithful night in Paris.
Harrods is quite the high end shopping experience and tourist attraction. My main goal was to check out the food court. No, it’s not a food court as one may find in a crappy U.S. shopping Mall. No quick frozen then fried fast food. This place has fresh greens, meat, seafood, and spices that would bring Julie Childs back from the Dead, make Emeril weep, and Martha Stewart violate her parole, just to gander at this high end edible bounty.
In the freshly prepared food section there was a Deli Bar with Pastrami that could make a New York Rabbi salivate; a Sushi and Fish bar that would make Capt. Quinn like seafood again; and a Rotisserie bar that made me do flips. Mouth watering Roasted chickens, prime ribs, baby chickens, steaks, and Cuban pork were all on the menu. This was where the wife and I had lunch.
She had the grilled sirloin steak washed down with mineral water; I had the Cuban roasted suckling pig and mojo dip with black beans and rice, accompanied by Harrods own labeled lager. This meal was delicious! If there was a downside, it was how stinking crowded it was in the final days before Christmas. Credit Crunch Recession my Arsh!!! (Arsh is Brit speak for derriere)
Anyway, when in London have lunch at Harrods. Don’t forget to bring money
After lunch we were off to the Portrait Museum, first making a few shopping stops at other NON Harrods shopping outlets, making it to the museum an hour before closing time. They had to through us out. This Museum had photographs and paintings of mostly people’s heads, and whole bodies with heads too. The most memorable portrait was that of a woman dressed in old Dutch clothing like that you would see in a Van Gogh painting, except that her head gear was a white plastic carrier bag. It was done in such a way that the viewer had to do a hard double take to catch that little nuance. Of course the meaning of it was to bring attention to the next environmental disaster: Plastic Bags.
Whatever! Bags on her head or not – The Portrait Museum is worth your time too.
By now it is 6pm, two hours before show time, and we come across the Texas Embassy; A Tex-Mex eatery in the heart of London just ten walking minutes from the theater. We stop in for bite. I know, I know – How may anyone even think to eat at a place called the “Texas Embassy” while in London. What can I say? it seemed like a good idea at the time.
Actually, as we still were digesting our Harrods’ lunch – this was mostly a time waster somewhere warm. We ordered a couple of appetizers, and I had not one, but two, lousy margaritas. Two just to be sure the first one was lousy. That’s how you tell a weak lousy cocktail verses strong lousy cocktail. Have two. If the second one is still lousy – it’s a weak (and lousy) drink. No soup or tip for the Bar Tender!
Having wasted enough time and chatting with our waiter from Boston, we were off to the Show.
Travel tip: When in London – Skip the Texas Embassy and its cocktails.
We arrived somewhat early at the Criterion theater for the performance of 39 Steps; a comedic adaptation of the 1935 thriller directed by Alfred Hitchcock. The premise of the story was that of an innocent, albeit bored, London man caught up in pre World War One espionage between the British and Germans. The story involves secrets, romance, and a murder the bored chap did not commit. Though, of course, the police thought he did, and he’s on the run as a result.
The play had only four actors, an extra arm, about fifteen to twenty characters roles, with very limited and primitive props. The four actors did very well quickly changing customs and running about filling in the various character’s roles. The simple props and effects were well done and a relief from flashy high tech productions that are big on Awe and physical emotion, but low on good acting and raw human performance.
Travel Tip: If in London the 39 Steps is worth your time.
After the Play – it was off to Hotel Apex for a good sleep before the train ride back.
Tuesday – The Train ride. It was packed with holiday travelers. Luckily we had reserved seats, sitting in the center of the train facing each other over a table. Very comfy seats were they with the table adding a practical convenience.
If there was a downside it was the lady that sat next to me. Did not stop talking did she. By the time we got off in York I new of her whole family, weddings she has gone to, students she bordered in her home, about her dad, her job, and her pets. At one point she said sorry she spoke so much and said she wanted to read her book. Turning her head, looking at the book, and barely cracking it open, she turns back to me and starts talking again. I quickly reminded her that I thought she was to read her book. She giggled, elbowed me – and just yapped away the rest of the trip. It did make for an interesting trip I must say.
Before we knew it we were in York, and needed to take the local train to Harrogate. As my seat partner was also transferring to the Harrogate train, the wife and I decided to store our bag in a rental locker and take a stroll around York. We took our stroll, window shopped, and then took the 4pm train back to Harrogate and our trip was over.
My next entry, hopefully it will be soon, will cover the next scan of the Bruno Baby, Christmas Eve, general holiday happenings, the Christmas Tree burning on New Years Eve day, and how the wife and I spent the first day of the year.
Until then, here are a few pictures from the London Trip.
Enjoy.
St. Paul's And a Tree
Maiden Name
Main Hall Brit Museum
Egyptian Dead Person
The Wife with Egyptian Artifacts
Lunch At Harrods - No, Not China Town
Texas Embassy
Tower of London - Across Street from Hotel
Wife and I - Day of Departure
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